out in donGola

GETTING THERE AND AWAY:

Dongola’s airport appears to have been mothballed, but new tarmac makes road connection relatively quick and easy. Dongola is 500km from Khartoum and there is a daily coach service (6hrs, SDG35). Coming from Karima, you can pick up a minibus that take the newly sealed road on the east bank to As-Selim, the village facing Dongola on the opposite side of the Nile (2hrs, SDG15). Use the new bridge to cross the river. Heading north, the journey is dramatically improved since the opening of the new road in 2009, though you need to cross the river first to Kerma before continuing north to Wadi Halfa (10hrs, SDG55) A regular bus also leaves Dongola for port Sudan and costs SDG74.

Where to Stay & Eat:

  • Candace Nubian Guesthouse: Hosbitalia Street, clean guest house run by a friendly Korean family. Some rooms have en suite bathrooms. Internet available. Breakfast including camping $7.
  • Haifa Hotel: Hosbitalia Street, M: 0911203838. One of the better options in town. Clean rooms with en suite, AC & 2 bed cost SDG50.
  • Lord Hotel: Hosbitalia Street, M: 0915586808. Has entrances on 2 streets, marked with large red & yellow oil drums. En suite rooms with up to 3 beds cost SDG10.
  • Olla Hotel: Nr Abdul Ahal High School, T: 0241821848. A little ramshackle but the scenery is attractive . There is also a small restaurant that can provide breakfast but it usually gets going later in the day. Double Rooms with AC cost SDG30, Dormitory beds are SDG6.
  • Sameer Amiss Hotel: If you are on a tight budget this Lokanda-Style” hotel is a little north of the Lord Hotel. Beds SDG6.
  • Most of the places to eat lie along the Main Street and around the local boksi lot by the market. The Al Madina Restaurant lives up to its billing of “All nice food and drink”. Another good clean option is Al Mulataqa Cafetiera, which has a couple of vegetarian dishes on the menu.